Saws, types, maintenance and cutting techniques
|
|
fig.1
fig.3
fig.5
fig.7
fig.9
fig.10
|
fig.2
fig.4
fig.6
fig.8
saw set tool
fig.11
The
portal Restauromobile
Are you a restorer, a carpenter, a craftsman of
wood or an antique dealer or a private person and would like to submit
your work or sell furniture or antiques, or sell items, equipment and
materials for carpenters and restorers?
Register on the site and enter your free ads.
The portal has also, in the antiques & surroundings section:
|
|
Types
|
-
Frame saw : the blade is mounted on
a wooden frame and stretched by means of a twisted rope, it is
interchangeable and can have teeth of different width, (fig.1 and 2.):
-
to cleave, to cut parallel to the direction of the grain (also known as a
rip cut;
-
for trimming and cutting cross-cut against the grain;
-
turning saw, when the blade does not exceed 15 mm; needs for sinuous cuts.
-
Backsaws
(fig. 3: the
reinforcement on the back reduces the bending of the blade and allows the
execution of very precise cuts, but limits the depth of cut achievable; for example this category
includes:
-
gent's saw or gentleman's
saw;
-
dovetail saw;
-
tenon saw.
-
Arch saws:
-
Fretsaw: with a thin blade used for the realization of the inlays
The blade is usually clamped into position using a pair of wing nuts,
which hold in tension the blade (fig. 4);
-
copysaw: allows sinuous cuts on boards of limited thickness
(fig. 5);
-
Hand saws:
-
Ripsaw, with sturdy blade used to cut where the buck can not operate,
(fig. 6)
-
Keyhole saw, (also known as pad saw, alligator saw, jab saw or drywall saw),
with a thin blade and sharp, allows Various types of cutting and must be
kept perpendicular with respect to the surface to be cut, is used mainly for
cuts within the planes
, (fig.7) ;
|
The blade
|
The blades are made of hardened steel, and
on one of the edges (called front or bottom edge) there is a series of triangular teeth, more or less thick and inclined.
Like all tools, they need some maintenance.
Fixed the blade in a vise, sharpening is performed
by trimming the teeth with a triangular section file of the right dimensions, (fig. 8).
Furthermore, so that during use the saw
doesn't get stuck, it is necessary that the teeth have an inclination, relative to the plane of the blade, alternately right and left, so that the cut that is made is slightly wider than the thickness of the blade;
that's called spring setting, (fig. 9).
This can be accomplished easily with a
saw set tool; the one in photography, allows you to adjust beforehand, with an appropriate
knob with notches, the magnitude of the inclination of the teeth.
Its use is quite simple, although it requires a lot of time; the
single teeth are bent by a piston actuated by the pressure made by squeezing the handles
the saw set tool.
|
|
Cutting techniques
|
Draw the cut guidelines, by means of ruler,
precision square, marking gauge, pencil and anything else necessary, (see
marking tools), then you begin to saw with the
blade next to the line on the waste side.
You start pulling the saw towards you,
using the thumb of the hand holding the wood, as a guide.
In doing so, angle the blade just enough to
keep simultaneously the right direction, with respect to two adjacent guidelines; during cutting will be considered, from time to time, all lines drawn.
When cutting the workpiece, if possible,
it must be firmly fixed to the leg vise or the tail vise of the carpenter's bench, orienting it in order to allow an ergonomic position which allows to work comfortably and safely.
The movements of each stroke, must be fluid enough and long, exerting a constant force and without jerks and without twisting the blade.
The trimming cut, tends to splinter the wood, so you
must be careful at the end of the cut, in order to prevent this from
happening, you will have to hold, with the free hand, the part that
isn't fixed, gradually reducing the applied force.
The cut along the grain is less tiring, but the blade tends to follow the
texture produced by the fibers, moving from the drawn line.
For a smoother work, as well as keeping
the equipment in perfect efficiency, by a regular maintenance, as described
above, it may be useful, in order to reduce friction, to pass the paraffin,
a common candle or dry soap, on the blade, before cutting.
|
Electrical
|
Although the description of power tools,
basicly exiles from the topics covered in this website, we mention the possibility of using profitably small
hobbyist band saws, of comparable size and limited cost, which are particularly useful for making curved cuts.
|
back
to the homepage
|
|